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ALAPPUZHA
(Alleppey)
Like Kollam, this is a pleasant, easy –going market
town surrounded by coconut plantation and built on the canals which
service the coir industry of the backwaters. There’s precious little to
see for most of the year, but the annual Nehru Cup snakeboat race is an
event not to be missed. Any other day of the year, the backwater trip to
or from Kollam is the only reason to pass through.
Nehru Cup
Snakeboat Race
This famous regatta takes place on the second
Saturday of August each year. It’s held in the lake to the east of the
town. Scores of long, low-slung dugouts with highly decorated sterns and
crewed by up to 100 rowers shaded by gleaming silk umbrellas compete for
the cup, watched from the banks by thousands of spectators. The annual
traditions of ancient Kerala.
Tickets for the race are available on the day from numerous ticket
stands on the way to the lake where the race is held. This entitles you to
a seat on the bamboo terraces which are erected for the occasion and which
give an excellent view of the lake. The only drawback is that shortly into
the race
the terraces are invaded by local (ticket less) youth seeking a
better view. So far, the scaffolding has not collapsed, but one day it
just might! If you’re not keen on testing fate, there are pricier
tickets for the Rose Pavilion built in the middle of the lake.Take food and drink to the race because there’s little available
on the lake shore. An umbrella is another necessity because the race takes
place during the monsoon and the weather can alternate between driving
rain and blistering sunshine.
PLACES TO STAY
ALLEPPEY PRINCE HOTEL, (Government Approved) 2 Star
KAYALORAM LAKE RESORT
THE BACKWATERS
Fringing the coast of Kerala and winding far inland
is a complex network of lagoons, lakes, rivers, and canals. These
backwaters are both the basis of a distinct lifestyle and a fascinating
thoroughfare. Traveling by boat along the backwaters is one of the
highlights of a visit to Kerala. The boats cross shallow, palm-fringed
lakes studded a with cantilevered Chinese fishing nets, and travel along
narrow, shady canals where coir (coconut fiber), copra (dried coconut
meat) and cashews are loaded onto boats.
Stops are made at small settlements where people live on narrow
spits of land only a few metres wide. Though practically surrounded by
water, they still manage to keep cows, pigs, chickens, and ducks and
cultivate small vegetable gardens. On the more open stretches of canal,
traditional boats with huge sails and prows carved into the shape of
dragons drift by. The sight of three or four of these sailing towards you
in the late afternoon sun is unforgettable.
The most popular backwater trip is the eight-hour voyage between
Kollam and Alappuzha. The regular ferry service on this route has been
suspended for some timed due to a canal blockage at the Kollam end, but
faster and cheaper buses were already eating into the traffic on this long
route. Tourist boats are, however, more popular than ever. They are daily
services operated by both the private Alleppey Tourist Development Coop (ATDC)
and by the state government District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC).
Two stops are made along the way, a midday lunch stop and a brief
afternoon chi stop. Ayiramthengu or the coir village of Thrikkunnappuha
are popular stopping places. The crew have and ice box full of fruit,
soft
drinks and beer to sell, although you might want to bring along additional
refreshments and snacks. Bring sunscreen and a hat as well; sitting on the
roof is pleasant, but the sun really burn. The boat pauses to drop visitors off at the Mata Amritanandamayi Mission at
Amirtapuri. This is the residence and headquarters of Sri Mata
Amritanandamayi Devi, one of India’s very few (but in this case very
much revered) female gurus. Visitors should dress conservatively and there
is a strict code of behavior that all visitors are expected to adhere to.
The trip also passes the Kumarakody
Temple where the noted Malayalam poet Kumaran Asan drowned. Close to
Alappuzha, there’s glimpse of the 11th –century Karumadi Kuttan Buddha image close to the canal bank.
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