Beaches
Goa is justifiably famous for its beaches, and
Westerners have been flocking to them since the early 1960s. They used
to suffer from bad press in both the Westen and Indian media because
of the real or imagined nefarious activities of a small minority of
visitors.
There’s a wide range of accommodation at Colva, Benaulim,
Calangute and Bega. Places to stay are generally more basic at Anjuna,
Vagator and Chapora, which is where travellers tend to congregate.
It’s at these latter beaches that the full-moon parties are held. If
you fancy somewhere that’s less of a scene, Benaulim is an excellent
choice. There’s good accommodation and the beach is relatively
peaceful.
All these beaches are tourist, so if you want something
quieter, you’ll have to look further a field. Arambol (or Harmal as
it’s spelt on some maps), near the northern tip of Goa, is one such
place. Betul, south of Colva, and Palolem, even further south, are two
others. The ‘freaks’ have gone over the border into Karnataka
–though a few still hang on at Arambol.
The Aguada, Bogmalo, Varca and Cavelossim beaches are
essentially for affluent tourists staying at beach resorts.
Accommodation
Accommodation prices in Goa are based on high,
middle and low seasons. This generally won’t affect you much if you
stay in Budget accommodation, but certainly will if you stay in middle
or top-range hotels. The high season covers the period from mid-
December to late January, the middle (shoulder) period from October to
mid-December and February to June, and the low season from July to
September. Prices quoted in this chapter are the high –season rates.
ANJUNA
Famous throughout Goa for its Wednesday flea market, this is the
beach that everyone went to when Calangute had been filmed, recorded
reported and talked about into the sand. There’s a weird and
wonderful collection of over Landers, monks, defiant ex-hippies, gentle
lunatics, artists, artisans, seers, searchers and peripatetic
expatriates who normally wouldn’t be seen out of the organic
confines of their health-food emporia in San Francisco or London.
There’s no point in trying to define what
Anjuna is or what it’s like –it’s many different things to many
different people. The only way to find out is to stay here for a while
and make some friends. Full moon, when the parties take place, is a
particularly good time to be here.
Anjuna Flea Market
The Wednesday flea market at Anjuna is a major attraction for
people from all the Goan beaches. It’s a wonderful blend of Tibetan
and Kashmiri traders, colourful Gujarati tribal women and blessed-out
1960s-style hippies. It’s quite a scene. Whatever you need, from a
used paperback to a haircut, you’ll find it here-along with hundreds
of stalls selling jewellery, carvings, T-shirts, sarongs, chillums,
spices and everything else you can think of. You have a bargain hard
heeled tourists also make their way here and the traders start high
with their prices.
Entertainment
For most people, the evening begins with several beers on the
Shore Bar, watching the sun go down. It can get very crowded,
particularly after the flea market, and the powerful sound system
keeps people here until long after dark.
CALANGUTE
&BAGA
Seemingly not all that long ago, Calangute was the beach all
self-respecting hippies headed for, especially around Christmas when
psychedelic hell broke loose and the beach was littered with more
budding rock stars than most people have hot dinners. If you enjoyed
taking part in those mass pujas, with their endless half-baked
discussions about’ when the revolution comes ‘and the vibes, maaan’,
then this was just the ticket. You could frolic around with not a
stitch on, be ever so cool and liberated, and completely disregard the
feelings of the local inhabitants.
Calangute
isn’t one of the best Goan beaches; there are hardly any palms
gracing the shoreline, some of the sand is contaminated with red soil
and the beach drops pretty rapidly into the sea. There is, however,
plenty going on, and people who find Colva too quiet may find
Calangute more to their liking. However, the beach at Baga is better
and the landscape is more interesting.
Things
to Buy
Calangute and Baga have been swamped by Kashmiri traders eager to cash
in on the tourist boom. Their incessant hassling and pressure-selling
can become tedious. There is, however, a good range of things to buy-
Kashmiri carpets, embroideries, and papier-mâché Tibetan and
Rajasthani crafts. Interesting jewellery, bangles and other ethnic
trinkets (usually Tibetan, Kashmiri and Indian tribal in origin) are
available.
CHAPORA
&VAGATOR
This is one of the most beautiful and interesting parts of Goa’s
coastline and a good deal more attractive than Anjuna for either a
short or a long stay. Much of the inhabited area nestles under a
canopy of dense coconut palms, and Chapora village is dominated by a
rocky hill on top of which sits an Old Portuguese fort. The fort is
fairly well preserved and worth a visit; the views from its ramparts
are excellent.
Secluded,
sandy coves are found all the way around the northern side of this
rocky outcrop, though Vagator’s main beaches face west towards the
Indian Ocean. Little Vagator, the beach to the south, is very popular
with travellers and lots of people staying in Calangute and Baga come
up here for the day.
Many
Westerners stay here on a long-term basis but it’s not a tourist
ghetto. The local people remain friendly and, since the houses
available for rent are widely scattered and there are several beaches
and coves to choose from, it’s really only to Little Vagator that
you see large groups of travellers together in one place. However,
although there’s still no package tourism, the place is starting to
change
CHAPORA TO ARAMBOL
The ride up the coast between Chapora and Arambol offers the
opportunity to detour to some picturesque and peaceful beaches. Morjim
Beach, just north of Chapora, has a handful of beach shacks and a
couple of hotels at its northern end. Mandrem Beach is not
quite as idyllic to look at but is a great place to get away from it
all. There are rooms to let in the village behind the dunes.
ARAMBOL
(Harmal)
Some years ago, when the screws were tightened at Anjuna in an
attempt to control what local people regarded as the more outrageous
activities (nudism and drug use) of a certain section of the traveling
community, the die-hards cast around for a more ‘sympathetic’
beach. Arambol, north of Chapora, was one of those which they chose.
Initially,
only those willing to put up with very primitive conditions and a
total lack of facilities came here. That has changed but development
has so far been minimal, although there is talk of a golf course and
resort being built here.
The seashore is beautiful and
the village quiet and friendly, with just a few hundred locals, mostly
fishing people, and a couple of hundred Western residents in the
November to February high season.
Buses
from Mapusa stop at the modern part of Arambol, on the main road,
where there’s a church, a few shops, but no bank. From here, a side
road leads one km down to the village, and the beach is about 500
metres further on. This mean beach is a good place to swim but to the
north are several much more attractive bays- follow the path over the
headland. There are some new chalets on the hillside of the first bay.
Behind the second bay is a small fresh water pool that’s very
pleasant to lie about it. You can give yourself a mudbath with the mud
that lines the bottom of this pool, said to be very good for the skin;
and there’s a hot spring nearby.
TEREKHOL
FORT
At Terekhol, on the north bank of the river of the same name,
there’s small Portuguese fort with a little church (usually locked)
within its walls.
The fort makes a good outing on a motorcycle, and you could
stop for a swim on deserted Querim Beach, but there’s very little to
see at the fort itself apart from the views.
There are occasional
buses from Mapusa or Pernem to Querim, on the south bank of the river,
opposite Terekhol and also between Arambol and Querim. The ferry
between Querim and Terekhol runs every half hour between 6 am and 10
pm.
COLVA
& BENAULIM
The most beautiful stretches of white sand in Goa extend
sun-drenched and palm-fringed for km after km all the way from Majorda,
through Colva, Benaulim, Varca and Cavelossim, down to the point at
Mobor.
It’s only fair to
point out that this development is contained within relatively small
areas. The dozen or so resort complexes which have sprung up along
this 30-km coastline are, for the most part, widely spaced and self
contained. Colva itself to get away about it. Walk two km in either
direction, and you’ll get close to what it used to be like before
the cement mixers began chugging away. Despite this, the area has a
long way to go before it gets as developed as Calangute, or a lot of
other beaches.
Colva:
There’s a wide choice of short-term accommodation in Clova. At the
cheaper end of the market are the places strung out along the roads
behind the beach, north of the main area.
Majorda:
There
are several resort complexes north of Colva, along Majorda Beach.
Benaulim:
If you hankers after the more tranquil parts of this
coastline, then Benaulim Beach, less than two km south of Colva, is
the place to head for.
FORT
AGUADA & CANDOLIM
The beaches of North Goa extended from Fort Aguada in an almost
uninterrupted 30 km sandy stretch to the border with Maharashtra.
Sinquerim, the beach below the fort, and Candolim are popular with
package tourists, but independent travellers can also find
accommodation here. These beaches tend to be quieter than Calangute,
particularly at weekends. There are some pleasant places to stay,
although there’s nowhere for those on a very tight budget.
Guarding
the mouth of the Mandovi River, Fort
Aguada was built by the Portuguese in 1612. It’s worth visiting
the moated ruins on the hilltops for the views, which are particularly
good from the old lighthouse. You can also visit the dungeons.
To the east is Aguada
Jail: most inmates (12 of them Westerners) are in on drug charges.
MAPUSA
Mapusa (pronounced locally as ‘Mapsa’) is the main centre of
population in the northern provinces of Goa and the main town for
supplies if you are staying either at Anjuna or Chapora. If you’re
staying at Calangute, Baga or Candolim, you have a choice of Panaji or
Mapusa as a service centre.
There’s not
much to see in Mapusa, though the Friday market is worth a visit. You
may, however, need to stay here overnight if you’re catching a bus
to Bombay the following day- there’s no need to go to Panaji for
long- distance buses.
MARGAO
(Madgaon)
The capital of Salcete province, Margao is the main population
centre of South Goa and a pleasant provincial town which still
displays reminders of its Portuguese past. It’s not of great
interest to travellers, though Margao’s richly decorated Church
of the Holy Spirit is worth a visit, and the covered market
is the best of its kind in Goa – though you may be deterred by the
overpowering smell of fish. Margao’s importance, however, is as a
service and transport centre for people staying at Colva and Benaulim
beaches.
AROUND
MARGAO
Rachol Seminary & Church
Six km from Margao, near the village of Raia, is the Rachol
Seminary and Church. The Museum
of Christian Art was opened here recently, partly funded by the
Gulbenkian Foundation. The interesting displays include textiles, some
of the silver once used in the churches of Old Goa, a magnificent 17th
–century, silver monstrance in the shape of a swam, and a mobile
mass kit (complete with candlesticks) – standard issue for
missionaries out in the jungle. The museum is open daily from 9:30 am
to 12:30 pm and 2:30 to 5 pm.
The church
dates from 1610 and then seminary has interesting architecture, a
decaying library and paintings of Christian characters done in India
styles. This is not a tourist site, so you should ask before wandering
around.
PANAJI
(Panjim)
Panaji is one of India’s smallest and most pleasant state capitals.
Built on the south bank of the wide Mandovi River, if officially
became the capital of Goa in 1843, though the Portuguese viceroys
shifted their Residence from the outskirts of Old Goa to the former
Palaces of Adil Shah in Panaji as early as 1759.
While
most people pass through Panaji on their way to the beaches or to Old
Goa (nine km to the east), the town is well worth a visit fro its own
sake. The atmosphere is easy –going and the people are very
friendly. In the oldest part of the town, the Portuguese heritage has
survived remarkably well; there are narrow winding streets, old houses
with overhanging balconies and red-tiled roofs, whitewashed churches,
and numerous small bars and cafes. Portuguese signs are still visible
over many premises.
Things to
See
The old district, Fontainhas,
is to the west of the Ourem River. It’s an interesting area to walk
around, with narrow streets, tiled buildings with overhanging
balconies and an atmosphere more reminiscent of the Mediterranean than
of India. There are numerous little bars rarely visited by foreigners.
Even if you don’t stay there, the Panjim Inn is a beautiful, old
building that’s worth a visit.
At the centre
of Fontain has, the Chapel of St
Sebastian stands at the end of a picturesque street. Although it
dates only from the 1880s, it contains a number of interesting
features- in a particular a striking crucifix which originally stood
in the Palace of the Inquisition in Old Goa.
The Church
of the Immaculate Conception is Panaji’s main place of worship,
and it stands above the square in the main part of town, reached by
several intersecting flights of stairs. The original construction was
consecrated in 1541. Panaji was the first part of call for voyages
from Lisbon, so Portuguese sailors would visit this church to give
thanks for a safe crossing before continuing to Old Goa.
The Secretariat
is the other building of interest in Panaji. Dating from the 16th
century, it was originally Adil Shah’s palace. In 1759, it became
the viceroy’s official Residence. In case you’re wondering what
the bizarre statue of a man apparently about to strangle a woman by
the Secretariat building represents, this is Abbe Faria, a famous
hypnotist and his assistant. Born in Candolim in 1756, he emigrated to
France, where he became a celebrated hypnotic medium.
Other things to see in Panaji include a
small, dusty museum and the
modern Mahalaxmi Temple.
AROUND
PANAJI
Three km west of Panaji is Miramar, Panaji‘s nearest beach, but
it’s neither particularly attractive nor a good place to swim.
Four km further along this road is Dona Paula, a
small town, with several resort complexes, that has grown up around a
fishing village.
OLD GOA
Nine km east of Panaji, half a dozen imposing churches and
cathedrals, (amongst the largest in Asia) are all that remains of the
Portuguese capital that was once said to rival Lisbon in magnificence.
Some of the old buildings have become museums maintained by the
Archaeological Survey of India – maintenance very necessary because
if the lime plaster which protects the laterite structure is not
renewed frequently, the monsoons will reduce the buildings to ruin.
History
Even before the arrival of the Portuguese, Old Goa was a thriving
and prosperous city, and the second capital of the Adil Shahi dynasty
of Bijapur. At that time, it was a moat, and contained temples,
mosques and the large palace of Adil Shah. Today, none of these
structures remain except for a fragment of the gateway to the palace.
Under
the Portuguese, the city grew rapidly in size and splendors, despite
an epidemic in 1543 which wiped out a large percentage of the
population. Many huge churches monasteries and convents were erected
by the various religious orders which came to Goa under royal
mandates. The Franciscans were the first to arrive.
Old
Goa’s splendors was short-lived, however, because by the end of the
16th century. Portuguese supremacy on the seas had been
replaced by that of the British, Dutch and French. The city’s
decline was accelerated by the activities of the Inquisition and a
devastating epidemic which struck in 1635. Indeed if it had not been
for the treaty between the British and the Portuguese, it is probable
that Goa would either have passed to the Dutch or been absorbed into
British India.
The city muddled on into the early 19th
century as the administrative capital of Portugal’s eastern empire.
In 1843, the capital was shifted to Panaji.
Se
Cathedral
The largest of the churches in Old Goa, Se Cathedral was begun in
1562 during the reign of King Dom Sebastiao (1557-78). It was
substantially completed by 1619, though the altars were not finished
until 1652. The cathedral was built for the Dominicans and paid for by
the royal treasury out of the proceeds of the sale of crown property.
The
building is Portuguese- Gothic in style with a Tuscan exterior and
Corinthian interior. There were originally two towers, one on either
side of the façade, but one collapsed in 1776. The remaining tower
houses a famous bell, one of the largest in Goa, often called the
Golden Bell because of its rich sound. The main altar is dedicated to
St Catherine of Alexandria, and old paintings on either side of it
depict scenes from her life and martyrdom.
Convent
& Church of St Francis of Assisi
This is one of the most interesting buildings in Old Goa. It
contains gilded and carved woodwork, old murals depicting scenes from
the life of St Francis, and a floor substantially made of carved
gravestones- complete with family coats of arms dating back to the
early 1500s. The church was built by eight Franciscan friars who
arrived here in 1517 and constructed a small chapel consisting of
three altars and a choir. This was later pulled down and the present
building was constructed on the same spot in 1661.
The convent at
the back of this church is now the archaeological
museum. It houses many portraits of the Portuguese viceroys, most
of them inexpertly touched up; fragments of sculpture from Hindu
temple sites in Goa, which show Chalukyan and Hoysala influences;
stone Vetal images from the animist cult which flourished in this part
of India centuries ago; and a model of a Portuguese caravel, minus the
rigging.
Basilica
of Bom Jesus
The Basilica of Bom Jesus is famous throughout the Roman Catholic
world. It contains the tomb and mortal remains of St Francis Xavier
who, in 1541, was given the task of spreading Christianity among the
subjects of the Portuguese colonies in the east. A former pupil of St
Ignatius Loyola, the founder of the Jesuit Order, St Francis
Xavier’s missionary voyages became legendary and, considering the
state of transport at the time, they were nothing short of miraculous.
Apart from the
richly gilded altars, the interior of the church is remarkable for its
simplicity. This is the only church which is not plastered on the
outside (although it was originally). Construction began in 1594 and
the church was completed in 1605. The centre of interest inside the
church is, of course, the Tomb of St Francis. The construction of the
tomb was underwritten by the duke of Tuscany and executed by the
Florentine sculptor Giovanni Batista Foggini. It took 10 years to
build and was completed in 1698. The remains of the body are housed in
a silver casket, which at one time was covered in jewels. On the walls
surrounding it are murals depicting scenes from the saint’s
journeys, and one of his death on Sancian Island.
The Professed House, next door to the basilica, is a two storey laterite
building covered with lime plaster. It was completed in 1585, despite
much opposition to the Jesuits. Part of the building burned down in
1633 and was partially rebuilt in 1783. There’s a modern art gallery attached to the basilica.
Church of
St Cajetan
Modeled on the original design of St Peter’s in Rome, this church
was built by Italian friars of the Order of Theatines, who were sent
by Pope Urban III to peach Christianity in the kingdom of Golconda
(near Hyderabad). The friars were not permitted to work in Golconda,
so settled at Old Goa in 1640. The construction of the church began in
1655. Historically, it’s of much less interest than the other
churches.
Church of
St Augustine Ruins
All that is really left of this church is the enormous 46
–meters-high tower which served as a belfry and formed part of the
façade of the church. The few other remnants are choked with creepers
and weeds, and access is difficult. The church was constructed in 1602
by Augustinian friars who arrived at Old Goa in 1587.
It was abandoned in 1835 due to
the repressive policies of the Portuguese government, which resulted
in the eviction of many religious orders from Goa. The church fell
into neglect and the vault collapsed in 1842. In 1931, the façade and
half the tower fell down, followed by more sections in 1938.
Church
& Convent of St Monica
This huge, three –storey, laterite building was commenced in
1606 and completed in 1627, only to burn down nine years later.
Reconstruction started the following year, and it’s from this time
that the buildings date. Once known as the Royal Monastery, due to the
royal patronage which it enjoyed, the building is now used by the
Mater Devi Institute as a nunnery and was inaugurated in 1964.
Visitors are allowed inside if they are reasonably dressed. There are
fading murals on the inside of the western walls.
Other
Buildings
Other monuments of minor interest in Old Goa are the Viceroy’s
Arch, Gate of Adil Shah’s Palace, Chapel of St Anthony, Chapel of St
Catherine, and the church of Our Lady of the Rosary
VARCA
& CAVELOSSIM
The 10 – km strip of pristine beach south of Benaulim has become
Goa’s resort beach, with at least half a dozen hotels of varying
degrees of luxury. As far as resorts go, some of them are quite good,
and they are certainly isolated from anything which might disturb the
peace. Access to the resorts is along the main road south from
Benaulim. Prices given below are the high season, which for these
resort hotels tends to be from October to April.
Varca
Varca is five km south of Benaulim, and the first resort you come to
is the peaceful.
Cavelossim
Cavelossim, seven km further south, is more developed. Several hotels
are currently being built, and there’s even a time-share resort
under construction.
OTHER
BEACHES
Opposite the narrow peninsula occupied by the Leela Beach Resort
is the fishing village of Betul,
reached either by boat or by bus form Margao via Chinchinim or
Cuncolim. North of the village, near the harbour, is the peaceful.
Agonda,
a little village by an empty two-km stretch of sand in southern Goa.
The road to Agonda winds over hills, past the old Portuguese fort of
Cabo de Rama. On the edge of the village stands the shell of a resort
hotel- a project that was abandoned before the building was completed.
In the far south of Goa, at Palolem,
is an impossible beautiful palm –fringed cove of white sand that is
becoming a popular spot for day –trippers from Colva and Cavelossim.
PONDA
Although the central, inland town of Ponda is of no great
interest, it does boast an old mosque and, in the surroundings area,
numerous unique Hindu temples. There are regular buses from Panaji and
Margao.
When the Portuguese
arrived in Goa, they destroyed every temple and mosque they could lay
their hands on. As a result, temples in Goa are generally set back
form the coast and comparatively new, although some date back about
400 years. The temples near Ponda have been rebuilt from originals
destroyed by the Portuguese, and their lamp towers are a distinctive
Goan feature.
Five of
Goa’s most important Hindu temples are close to Ponda, on the other
inland route between Panaji and Margao. The Siva temple of Shri
Mangesh is at Priol –Ponda Taluka, about 22 km from Panaji. This
tiny, 18th –century, hilltop temple, with its white
tower, is a local landmark. Less than two km further down the road is Shri
Mahalsa, a Vishnu temple.
About five km from
Ponda are Shri Ramnath and Shri
Nagesh, and nearby is the Shri
Shantadurga Temple. Dedicated to Shantadurga, the goddess of
peace, the latter sports a very unusual, almost pagoda-like structure
with a roof made of long slabs of stone. Further south are the temples
of Shri Chandreshwar, west
of Quepem: the Shantadurga, east of Betul; and the Shri Mallikarjuna, east of Chauri.
The oldest mosque remaining in Goa is
the Safa Shahouri Masjid at Ponda, built by Ali Adilshah in 1560. It
once matched the mosques at Bijapur in size and quality, but was
allowed to decay during the Portuguese period. Little remained of its
former grandeur by the time the Portuguese left but the Archaeological
Survey of India has now undertaken its restoration using local
artisans.
BONDLA
WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
Up in the lush foothills of the Western Ghats, Bondla is a good
place to see sambar and wild boar. It’s the smallest of the Goan
wildlife sanctuaries (eight sq km) but the easiest one to reach.
It’s 52 km from Panaji and 38 km from Margao.
There is a botanical garden, fenced deer
park and a zoo which is better than the most, with reasonably spacious
enclosures. The zoo was originally established to house orphaned
animals, but these days is also a breeding colony for the larger
species of deer.
Bookings for
accommodation should be made in advance at the office of the
Department of Forestry, directly opposite the Air India office, and
beside the Hotel Fidalgo, in Panaji.
DUDHSAGAR
FALLS
On the eastern border with Karnataka are Goa’s most impressive
waterfalls. They’re particularly impressive waterfalls. They’re
particularly impressive if you’re coming in by train soon after the
monsoon, because the line crosses a bridge by the falls and the train
often stops tolet passengers get a good view. If the trains are
running, Dudhsagar is a two-hour trip from Margao or 50 minutes from
Kulem station.
MOLEN
& COTIGAO WILDLIFE
SANCTUARIES
These wildlife sanctuaries are larger than Bondla but you will
need your own transport to get to them. There’s a treetop watchtower
in Catigao but the animals manage to remain well hidden, so you
won’t see a lot.
VASCO DA
GAMA
Close to Mormugao Harbour and three km from Dabolim Airport, Vasco
da Gama is the terminus of the railway line to Goa- though a few local
trains continue to the harbour. If you arrive in Goa by train, you can
get off at Margao to reach Colva Beach; if you fly in, it’s possible
to arrive too late to get much further than Vasco unless you’re
prepared to take a taxi. Fortunately, there are several hotels in this
unexacting town.
BOGMALO
Eight km from Vasco, and only four km from the airport, is Bogmalo
Beach. It’s a small, sandy cove dominated by the five-star Oberoi
hotel, which evaded the restriction requiring all hotels to be built
at least 500 metres from the beach. There’s little here apart from
the resort hotel and a couple of smaller places to stay, the
reasonably pleasant beach, several expensive beach cafes, and the
small village of Bogmalo.
Places to Stay
CIDADE DE GOA (5 Star Deluxe)
FORT AGUADA BEACH RESORT (5 Star Deluxe)
GOA MARRIOTT RESORT (5 Star Deluxe)
MAJORDA BEACH RESORT (5 Star Deluxe)
RENAISSANCE GOA RESORT (5 Star Deluxe)
TAJ EXOTICA, GOA (5 Star Deluxe)
THE LEELA PALACE GOA, (5 Star Deluxe)
HOLIDAY INN RESORT GOA (5 Star)
THE KENILWORTH BEACH RESORT (5 Star)
SUN VILLAGE (4 Star)
TAJ HOLIDAY VILLAGE (4 Star)
HOTEL LA PZ GARDENS (3 Star)
HOTEL MANDOVI (3 Star)
NANU RESORTS (3 Star)
HOTEL NOVA GOA (3 Star)
WHISPERING PALMS BEACH RESORT (3 Star)