KANCHIPURAM
Sometimes known as Siva Vishnu Kanchi, Kanchipuram is
one of the seven sacred cities of India and was, successively, capital of
the kingdoms of the Pallavas, Cholas and rajas of Vijaynagar. During
Pallava times, it was briefly occupied by the Chalukyans of Badami, and by
the battle fortunes of the Pallava kings reached a low ebb.
Kanchipuram is a spectacular temple city and its many gopurams can
be seen from a long way away. Of the original 1000 temples, there are
still about 125 left spread out across the city. Many of them are the work
of the later Cholas and of the Vijayanagar kings.
Kanchi is also famous for its hand-woven silk fabrics. This
industry originated in Pallava times, when the weavers were employed to
produce clothing and fabrics for the kings. The shops which sell silk
fabrics, such as those along the road to the Devarajaswami Temple, are
used to bys loads of Indian tourists in a hurry and prices are
consistently higher than in Madras.
KALIASANATHA TEMPLE
Dedicated to Siva, Kailasanatha is one of the
earliest temples. It was built by the Pallava king, Rayasimha, in the late
7th century, though its front was added later by his son, King
Varman III. It is the only temple at Kanchi which isn’t cluttered with
the more recent additions of the Cholas and Vijayanagar rulers, and so
reflects the freshness and simplicity of early Dravidian architecture.
Fragments of the 8th –century murals which once graced
the alcovers are a visible reminder of how magnificent the temple must
have looked when it was first built.
The temple is run by the Archaeology Department and is very
interesting. Quite unusually, non-Hindus are allowed into the inner
sanctum.
VAIKUNTA PERUMAL TEMPLE
Parameshwara and Nandi Varman II built this temple
between 674 and 800 AD, shortly after the Kailasanatha Temple. It is
dedicated to Vishnu. The cloisters inside the outer wall consist of lion
pillars and are representative of the first phase in the architectural
evolution of the grand 1000-pillared halls of later temples.
SRI EKAMBARANATHAR TEMPLE
The
Sri Ekambaranathar Temple is dedicated in Siva and is one of the largest
temples in Kanchipuram, covering nine hectares. Its 59-meter-high gopuram
and massive outer stone wall were constructed in 1509 by Krishna Devaraja
of the Vijayanagar Empire, though construction was originally started by
the Pallavas and the temple was later extended by the Cholas. Inside are
five separate enclosures and a 1000- pillared hall (which actually
contains 540 differently decorated pillars).
The temple’s name is said to be a modified form of Eka Amra
Nathar- the Lord of the Mango Tree- and is one of the enclosures is a very
old mango tree, with four branches representing the four Vedas. The fruit
of each of the four branches is said to have a different taste, and a
plaque nearby claims that the tree manifestation of the god and is the
only around. You can also partake of the sacred ash (modest contribution
gratefully accepted). As this is still a functioning Hindu temple,
non-Hindus cannot enter the sanctum sanctorum. With the permission of the
temple priest, it’s possible to climb to the top of one of the gopurams.
KAMAKSHI AMMAN TEMPLE
Dedicated to the goddess Parvati, this imposing
temple is the site of the annual Car Festival, held on the 9th
lunar day in February/ March. When not in use, the ornately carved wooden
car is kept partially covered in corrugated iron halfway up Gandhi Rd.
The temple has a golden gopuram in the centre.
Devarajaswami Temple
Like the Sri Ekambaranathar Temple, this is an
enormous monument with massive outer walls and a beautifully sculptured
1000-pillared (actually only 96) hall. One of its most notable features is
a huge chain carved from a single piece of stone. The temple is dedicated
to Vishnu and was built by the Vijayanagar kings.
PLACES TO STAY
HOTEL ROYAL SOUTHERN, (Government Approved) 3 Star
GETTING THERE & AWAY
BUS: As elsewhere, the timetable at the bus stand is
in Tamil, but there is no problem finding a bus in the direction you want
to go.
TRAIN:
Trains run from Madras Egmore to Kanchipuram
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