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PONDICHERRY
 Formely a French colony settled early in the 18th
century, Pondicherry became part of the Indian Union in the early
‘50s when the French voluntarily relinquished control. Together with
the other former French enclaves of Karaikal (also in Tamil Nadu),
Mahe (Kerala) and Yanam (Andhra Pradesh), it now forms the Union
Territory of Pondicherry.
For years, Pondicherry has been promoted as and enduring pocket
of French culture on the Indian subcontinent. Up until a few years
ago, that image was largely false as the only remaining visible French
influences were the French Consulate, the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall)
and the red kepis (caps) and belts worn by the local police. These
days, such claims are more realistic due to the extensive restoration
work undertaken by the Aurobindo Ashram, the Alliance Franchise, and
other bodies. Many houses and institutions in the streets between the
waterfront and the old canal are now very chic and gentrified, their
gardens ablaze with flowering trees and bougainvillea, an their
entrances adorned with shiny brass plates. The overall impression is
one of gleaming whitewashed residences and a concern for maintaining
standards rarely encountered elsewhere in India.
Yet, beyond the canal, Pondicherry is as Indian as anywhere
else in India, although it is relatively well lit, paved and laid out,
and the signs are in English or Tamil, not French.
Most people visit Pondicherry to see the Sri Aurobindo Ashram
and its offshoot, Auroville, 10km outside town.
BOOKSHOPS
The Vak Bookshop, 15 Nehru St, specialises in
books on religion and philosophy. Equally good (if you read French)
are the Kailash French Bookshops on Lal Bahabhur St and the French
Bookshop on Suffren St next to Alliance Franchise. There’s a branch
of Higginbothams on Gingy St.
SRI AUROBINDO ASHRAM
 Founded by Sri Aurobindo in 1926, this ashram is
one of the most popular in India with Westeners, and is also one of
the most affluent. Its spiritual tenets represents a synthesis of yoga
and modern science. After Aurobindo’s death, spiritual authority
passed to one of his devotees, a French woman known as The Mother, who
herself died in 1973, aged 97. These days, the ashram underwrites and
promotes a lot of cultural and educational activities in Pondicherry,
though there is a certain tension between it and the local people
because it owns virtually everything worth owning in the Union
Territory but is reluctant to allow local participation in the running
of the society.
The main ashram building is on Marine St and is surrounded by
other buildings given over to the various educational and cultural
activities of the Aurobindo Society. The ashram is open every day from
8am to 6pm and you can be shown around on request.
The flower-festooned Samadhi (tomb) of Aurobindo
and The Mother’s meditation room is opened to the public on the
anniversary of her birth (21 February) and death (17 November).
Opposite the main building is the educational centre where you
can sometimes catch a film, slide show, play or lecture (forthcoming
events are announced on the ashram’s notice board).
PONDICHERRY MUSEUM
This museum has an interesting, eclectic and
well-displayed variety of exhibits ranging from French furniture to a
history of bead making.
ALLIANCE FRANCHISE
This French cultural centre at 38 Suffren St, runs
French, English and Tamil classes as well as a library, computer
centre and a nearby French restaurant. Its small monthly newsletter,
Le Petit Journal, details forthcoming courses and events. The library
is open from 9 am to noon and 4 to 7 pm.
PLACES TO STAY
ANANDHA INN, (Government Approved) 3 Star
HOTEL PONDICHERRY ASHOK, (Government Approved) 3
Star
INTERNATIONAL GUEST HOUSE
JAYARAM HOTEL 3 Star
SEASIDE GUEST HOUSE
HOTEL ANNAMALAI INTERNATIONAL, (Government
Approved)
THING TO BUY
Pottery , clothing, shoes and a whole range of other
Auroville products can be found in La Boutique d’ Auroville on Nehru
St. Incense and other handicrafts are also sold at Cottage Industries
on Rangapillai St.
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