RANTHAMBHORE NATIONAL PARK
Situated
near the town of Sawai Madhopur, midway
between Bharatpur and Kota, Ranthambhore National Park is one of the
prime examples of Project Tiger’s conservation efforts in Rajasthan.
Sadly, it also demonstrates that programme’s overall failure; for it
was in this park that government officials were implicated in the
poaching of tigers for the Chinese folk medicine trade. Experts reckon
that the tiger population here may now be as low as 15, although the
official figure is 22 –down from 44 a few years back. There’s still
a reasonable chance of seeing one, but you should plan on two or three
safaris. Other game, especially the larger and smaller herbivores, are
more numerous.
The
park itself covers some 400 sq km and its scenery is very beautiful. A
system of lakes and rivers is hemmed in by steep high, crags and, on top
of one of these, is the extensive and well-preserved fortress of
Ranthambhore, built in the 10th century. The fort is
definitely worth visiting and there are superb views over the park from
the ramparts. The lower lying ground alternates between open bushland
and fairly dense forest and is peppered with ruined pavilions, chhatris
and ‘hides’- the area was formerly a hunting preserve of the
maharajas.
A good network of four gravel tracks crisscrosses the park and
safaris are under-taken in open-sided jeeps driven by a ranger. If
you’ve ever been on safari in Africa, you might think this is an
unduly risky venture but the tigers appear unconcerned by jeep loads of
garrulous tourists touting cameras only metres away from where they’re
lying.
The best time to visit the park is between October and April, and
the park is actually closed during the monsoon from 1 June to 1 October.
Early morning and late afternoon are the best time to view game.
Orientation
There’s a tourist office in the Project Tiger
office is Sawai Madhopur. It is tucked away half a km south of the
railway station. Just follow the tracks south from the station, through
the overpass, and the office is on the left, just before the cinema,
which is on the other side of the tracks.
The
number of vehicles allowed into the park is strictly controlled. There
are four trails within the park, and on each safari two or three jeeps
take each trail. There are also large trucks, seating 22 people, but
they’re limited to only two of the trails.
It’s
10 km from Sawai Madhopur to the first park gate, where you pay the
entry fees; and a further three km to the main gate and the Jogi Mahal.
The accommodation is strung out all the way along the road from the town
to the park. Advance booking is essential during the busy Christmas and
New Year periods.
Places to Stay
There’s some basic accommodation in the town
itself, while the better places are along the park road. When stepping
off the train you’ll be besieged by touts trying to drum up business.
Taj Group’s Sawai Madhopur Lodge; (one km) formerly belonging to the
maharaja of Jaipur. It is suitably luxurious, and has a bar, restaurant,
pool and beautiful garden.
Getting There & Away
Sawai Madhopur is on the main Delhi to Bombay
broad-gauge railway line and, as most trains stop here, there’ a wide
range to choose from. The 108-km trip to Kota takes two hours and 10
minutes, while to Agra Fort it’s 226 km, a trip which takes eight
hours.