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TIRUPATHI
& TIRUMALA
The ‘holy hill’ of Tirumala, 20 km from its
service town of Tirupathi in the extreme south of Andhra Pradesh, is one
of the most important pilgrimage centres in all India because of the
ancient Vaishnavaite temple of Venkateshwara. This is the god whose
picture graces the reception areas of most lodges and restaurants in
southern India. He’s the one with his eyes covered (since his gaze would
scorch the world) and garlanded in so many flowers that only his feet are
visible.
Tirumala is an engrossing place where you can easily spend a whole
day just wandering around. It’s one of the few temples in India which
allows non-Hindus into the sanctum sanctorum but, despite this, the place
sees very few foreign visitors.
On the flip side, it hosts an army of pilgrims from all over India
and in order to cope with them, everything at Tirumala and at Tirupathi is
organised to keep visitors fed, sheltered and moving. Most are housed in
special pilgrims’ choultries
in both Tirupathi and Tirumala.
Venkateshwara
Temple
Among the powers attributed to Venkateshwara by his
devotees is the granting of any wish made in front of the idol at Tirumala.
It’s on the basis of such a legend that pilgrims flock to this temple.
There are never less than 5000 here at any one time and, in a day, the
total is often as high as 100,000, although the average is a mere 30,000.
The temple staff alone number nearly 6000!
Such popularity makes the temple one of the richest in India, with
an annual income of a staggering five billion rupees. This is administered
by a temple trust which ploughs the bulk of the money back into hundreds
of choultries and charities such as home for the poor, orphanage, crafts
training centers, schools, college and art academies.
It’s considered auspicious to have your head shaved when visiting
the temple, so it you see people with shaved heads in south India, you can
be pretty sure they’ve recently been to Tirupathi – this applies to
men, women and children. This practice is known as tonsuring.
As you face the entrance to the temple, there is a small museum
at the top of the steps to the left. Among other things, it has a good
collection of musical instruments, including a tabla- type drum called a ubangam!
PLACES TO STAY
HOTEL BLISS (3 Star)
HOTEL GUESTLINE (3 Star)
HOTEL MAYURA (3 Star)
Tirupathi
Tirupathi is the town at the bottom of the hills and the transport hub. It
has plenty of hotels and lodges, so there’s no problem finding somewhere
to stay.
Tirumala
Huge dining halls serve thousands of free meals daily
to keep the pilgrims happy. Other than that, there are a few no-frills,
banana –leaf ‘meals’ places.
PUTTAPARTHI
Prasanthi Nilayam, the main ashram of Sri Sathya Sai
Baba, is in Puttaparthi. Sai Baba’s followers are predominantly Indian
but he also has many Western devotees. Some 400,000 people inundated his
ashram to celebrate his 60th birthday for his 70th
celebration.
Known as
the Abode of Highest Peace, the ashram is spacious and beautiful with good
food and accommodation- at least where the numbers aren’t overwhelming.
Sai Baba generally spends August to February here but moves to Whitefields
Ashram near Bangalore in neighboring Karnataka during the hot, dry
season.
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