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TIRUCHIRAPALLI (Trichy, Tiruchy)
The most famous landmark of this bustling town is the
Rock Fort Temple, a spectacular monument perched on a massive rocky
outcrop which rises abruptly from the plain to tower over the old city. It
is reached by a flight of steep steps cut into the rock and from its
summit you get a fantastic view of the town plus its other main landmark,
the Sri Tanganathaswamy Temple (Srirangam). Shrouded in a haze of coconut
palms away to the north, Sri Tanganathaswamy is one of the largest and
more interesting temple complexes in India, built on an island in the
middle of the Cauvery River and covering a staggering 2.5 sq km! There is
also another huge temple complex nearby – the Sri Jambukeshwara Temple.
Trichy itself has a long history going back to the centuries before
the Christian era when it was a Chola citadel. In the 1st
millennium AD, it changed hands between the Pallavas and Pandyas many
times before being taken by the Cholas in the 10th century AD.
When the Chola Empire finally decayed. Trichy passed into the hands
of the Vijayanagar kings of Hampi and remained with them until their
defeat, in 1565 AD, by the forces of the Deccan sultans. The town and its
fort, as its stands today, was built by the Nayaks of Madurai. It was one
of the main centres around which the wars of the Carnatic were fought in
the 18th century during the British –French struggle for
supremacy in India.
Monuments aside, the city offers a good range of hotels and
excellent local bus system, which doesn’t demand the strength of an ox
and the skin of an elephant to use.
ROCK FORT TEMPLE
The Rock Fort Temple tops an 83-metres-high outcrop.
This smooth rock was first hewn by the Pallavas who cut small cave temples
into the southern face, but it was the Nayaks who made use of its
naturally fortified position.
It’s a stiff climb up the 437 steps cut into the stone to the top
but well worth it for the views. Non-Hindus are allowed into the Vinayaka
Temple at the summit (contribution gratefully accepted), but are not
permitted into the bigger Sri Thayumanaswamy Temple dedicated to Siva,
halfway up. The monument is open daily from 6 am until 8 pm.
Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple (Srirangam)
This superb temple complex at Srirangam, about three
km from the Rock Fort, is surrounded by seven concentric walls with 21
gopurams and is probably the largest in India. Most of it dates from the
14th to 17th centuries, and many people have had a
hand in its construction, including the Cheras, Pandyas, Cholas, Hoysalas
and Vijayanagars. The largest gopuram in the first wall on the southern
side (the main entrance) was completed as recently as 1987, and now
measures astounding 73 metres.
The temple complex is very well preserved, with excellent carvings
throughout and numerous shrines to various gods, through the main temple
is dedicated to Vishnu. Even the Muslims are said to have prayed here
after the fall of the Vijayanagar Empire. Non-Hindus are, of course, not
allowed into the gold –topped sanctum, but this is no major loss since
the whole place is fascinating, and non-Hindus can go as far as the sixth
wall. Bazaars and Brahmins’ houses fill the space between the outer four
walls, and you don’t have to take your shoes off.
An annual Car Festival
is held here in January during which a decorated wooden chariot is pulled
through the streets between the various walls. In mid –December, the Vaikunta
Ekadasi, or Paradise Festival, takes place.
Sri Jambukeshwara Temple
The nearby Sri Jambukeshwara Temple is dedicated to Siva and has
five concentric walls and seven gopurams. Its deity is a Siva lingam,
submerged in water that comes from a spring in the sanctum sanctorum.
Non-Hindus are not allowed in this part of the same time as the Sri
Ranganathaswamy Temple. It’s open daily between 6 am and 1 pm and
between 4 and 9:30 pm.
St John’s Church
Trichy also has some interesting Raj-era monuments.
Built in 1812, St John’s Church has louvred side doors, which can be
opened to turn the church into an airy pavilion. It’s interesting for
its setting cemetery. Rouse the doorkeeper to let you in.
PLACES TO STAY
HOTEL SANGAM, (Government Approved) 4 Star
JENNEYS RESIDENCY, (Government Approved) 3 Star
ROYAL SOUTHERN HOTELS, (Government Approved) 3 Star
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